Aki's Ceremony, Crazy Todome Climbing

Here's some more pics from around my village, Aki's ceremony and the crazy mountain climbing in my village.  I will never look at this mountain the same...at one point or another, it made us all cry.

 These twins still cry when they see me in the village!

Women's Group with our batik headbands on

We have fun.

Apolonia likes to wear my sunglasses.  Taught her how to throw up the peace!  Changing the world, one hippie at a time :)

Aki getting decked out in beads for her ceremony.

This girl was dressed to present the gifts from the community to Aki.  She is striking! Especially in the kente.

Aki and me beaded out for the ceremony.

Potluck craziness after the ceremony.

Mawuli, Confi, and me

Oh, and I got Boss's name on a list for a free wheelchair...hopefully by June; we may have found a way to borrow one until then too!  Cross your fingers!

Hike up

First resting stop of the vertical climb

 

 

Rhoda is 76. I want to be like her when I grow up!

View around the mountain range.

View over the 3 villages.

Utter happiness!

We all made it...somehow

Aki's Going Away Ceremony

February 24, 2011

So today was Aki’s going away party in my village.  We had so much fun.  The ceremony started 3 hours late (as usual) so we spent the morning just hanging out and being silly.  We had a formal ceremony with the kids drumming and dancing and Aki and I getting decked out in beads.  The community bought her 2 nice woven cloths, a kente strip, and the chief bought her a kente woman’s cloth.  The women’s group bought her a batik purse and we all brought food to have a huge potluck after the ceremony.  We danced (the good pics from Aki’s camera to come later) and took palm wine.  We had so much fun.  It really made me so thankful for my awesome village.  They really are giving and loving people; I know I bitch about things not getting done and people asking me for stuff, but I am so very lucky to be in this village.  They’re really sweet!

 Bustin' a move at Aki's ceremony.

This weekend I have 5 friends coming to my village so we can climb the big mountain and hike from Mate to Todome…so right on.  We are also gonna make fufu and light soup with Esther Saturday night.  It’s gonna be a good weekend…and next weekend is Aki’s going away party from us PCV’s…I’m gonna really miss her a lot!

She and I are working on getting a wheelchair for Boss, so we can at least strap him in and take him outside…he’s just been lying on his mat for 3 months in his sister’s house…it’s very sad…so next week I’ll start searching for the wheelchair; I’ve heard we can get one in Ho. We’ll see.

This week has gone by really quickly, but it has been emotional for some reason.  Monday I had a great day going to Accra to pick batik supplies, Tuesday I ran out of propane and had to cook on a coal pot.  Wednesday I couldn’t get the damn thing to light and I was so hungry and aggravated; I called Confidence and she came and lit it by burning a poly bag (gross…it stunk and gave me a headache) and then I cooked a less than delicious egg and was trying to hurry so I could get to HoHoe to get my tank refilled and get home in time to hold class.  I couldn’t get the regulator off; I pulled and pulled like I was told to do.  I called Chris crying because I was so aggravated.  He gave me a little piece of information that Mawuli had failed to, “You know the switch, press it in as you pull up.” And it came right off.  So I threw my tank on my head and headed down to the road to catch a tro…Mawuli caught me and took it from me…and I got my gas…and made it back for class…and everything was fine.  It’s so funny how simple things drive me to tears here…and then today I’m supremely happy…geeze.

j

Batikin'

February 22, 2011

Yesterday, Confi and I went to Tema to pick batik supplies for the youth group.  I woke up at 4:15 so we could leave the village by 5:30 am.  We were going to Tema (before you get to Accra) because Kafui said we could get the supplies there cheaper than in Accra. So, armed with a phone number and directions that included, “drop at the Tema roundabout, pick a car to Community 2, drop at Adom FM, call the number.”  OK.  So we arrive in Tema and drop at the round about; Confi has never been to this place either, so we ask random people how to pick a car to Community 2.  Ok, stand here and wait.  Holla. So we get a car to someplace and from there we are told to catch a line taxi.  Ok. So now we drop in front of the radio station and I call the number to ask for directions.  “I’ll send someone to get you.  What color dress are you wearing?  Are you Chinese?”  “No, I’m a white lady.  My friend is wearing...” “Oh, no problem. If you are white they will be able to see you.”  It’s true.

So we get to the place and the lady is being less than helpful (the person on the phone was a very nice man who was at the bank and not at the shop to help us) and they were out of fabric.  DAMMIT. We just went through 45 minutes of backwoods car picking to get here and no fabric!  “Is there anywhere else?”  “Oh, they are having a container across from the police station.  Walk that way.”  So we start walking and Confi is getting pissy.  So she goes and asks someone where the police station is and they point that we have to turn right (lady didn’t mention this little fact).  So we go right and ask someone else…walk through this little building walkway…ask someone else… “oh, go beyond those trees and there is the police station…there is a container there…that must be what she was talking about.”  Confi is bitching about the women giving us bad directions and she doesn’t like going where she doesn’t know.  “Confi, this is my everyday life in Ghana.  Unless I’m in the village or HoHoe, I have no idea where I’m going.  I have to keep asking and asking, and walking and walking…and people make fun of me because I’m white and talk funny…that’s why I hide in my house for 2 days after I travel…I’m pissed at the world!”  She starts laughing.  We get to the container and they only have shitty quality fabric.  So we go back to the first place to pick the dyes and chemicals and decide to go on to Accra to pick the fabric.  So the women is once again less than helpful…we pick our stuff and head back to the road to ask for where we need to stand to pick a tro to Accra…big tree…got it.  So we pick a tro to Accra.  It takes about an hour due to all the stops along the way; but we drive a direction I’ve never been and I had no idea where we were, so I was entertained.  We drove along the coast and I got to see the guys dragging in nets, and big ocean fish on road stands for sale (not the crappy river fish we usually have) and even a couple octopi!  It reminded me of one of the best meals of my life: grilled octopus in olive oil in Athens…I smiled. 

We finally arrive in Accra and we have to pee. So we go to the urinal at the bus station, ie, a cement stall with a trough cut in the floor…you go multiple people at a time and I always manage to pee on my feet (cement??? Come on…splashing!!).  They thought it was hilarious to see the obruni’s white shiny ass…don’t care, ladies. So we then head to the market to pick the rest of the supplies.  The market we go to is one I’ve never been to.  It’s super crowded and covers blocks…all kinds of stuff for sale.   After we pick our stuff, I go to the station to pick a car home and Confi stays in Accra to do something.  It takes an hour to get out of the city due to traffic; I stick my Ipod on and spend the 4 hours in a state of happiness.  I pick a tro in HoHoe and arrive back in Todome to drop the supplies off at the shed around 7 p.m.  Long day, yet fun.  It always surprises me the things that make me realize how grateful I am to be here.  Today it was driving down a coastal road in a hot, stinky tro…and maybe it was seeing Confidence get aggravated at the lack of information and multitude of delays.  Apparently the bad traveling attitude is not just me; it’s human.

j

"Hi. I'd like to order some snake soup and a Coke, please..."

February 7, 2011

Today I met Aki at Kafui’s shop (at Wli Waterfalls…super busy tourist spot). She sells our water sachet purses and we were taking her the new headbands the women are making.  We show her the headbands and she agrees to sell them and I pick her brain about batik making (she has been doing it for over 10 years; I was asking prices of the supplies for our batik group in Todome).  Aki and I of course shop because she has awesome stuff: batik, dresses, hats, bags, beads (tons!).  A tour bus arrives full of kids from Semester at Sea and they take over her shop.  So Aki and I play sales girls…it was fun!  We sold 4 of the 7 headbands we brought; and there were only 2 colors to pick from.  They bought some of the water sachet purses too.  Kick ass!

We’re sitting there and Kafui goes, “Oh, look they have got a snake.” Huh? So Aki and I go over to where these guys are stoking a fire and placing a 4 to 5 foot long boa or python (I can’t tell the difference) on the grill. They have chopped off its head and tail (they said the tail can be poisonous…I’ve never heard that…I’ll have to google) and are toasting it and scraping off the scales.  They said they were gonna make soup and would bring us some; apparently the meat is really sweet.  “Once you eat this, you will not take any other meat.  It is good.”  So we got back to Kafui’s and she had made banku and pepe for us.  Aki goes and buys us all a Coke and we sit and eat and discuss opening an on-line shop using Kafui’s products.  It was a great afternoon!   Koku, the carver next door, carves these cool leaf trays out of wood, so I told him I want to him to make me 1 big, 2 mediums and 2 smalls.  Some with the dark wood, some with the light, and some with the mahogany.  He’s cutting me a deal and charging me about $20 US for all of them.  He also sells hair combs made from wood with an elephant carved as the handle (it’s really a pick, not a comb) and it’s only $3.45 US.  So I tell him I’ll buy a comb next time (I spent all my money at Kafui’s) and that I would pick the leaves in August when my parents come so they can take it back to the U.S. for me (May to August is high tourist season so I wanted to make sure he knew to make some and hold them back for me).  As we’re hanging around Kafui’s I see a hat I like… 4 cedis.  “Ok, I’ll pick it next time, I’m out of money.”  “Oh, take it. It is for you.  For coming to see me today and doing business with me.”  I argue for a bit and then she just shoves it in my bag…she also shoves the one Aki’s been eyein’ in her bag. Geeze Kafui…you fed us, gave us each a free hat and pair of earrings… People here are so nice and giving.  I’m gonna have to take them some muffins next time I go.  And I really would like to work with her getting an internet shop set up when I head back to the U.S.

So around 3 Aki and I leave and the snake soup was not finished…so no snake for us.  I came back to Todome and told the women how fast the headbands sold and that they better be ready to start producing for here and the US…I already have a standing order for 15 headbands from my fam and we need to stock Kafui up before the May tourist season starts!  It was a fun and productive day…work days were never like this at home…

j

Women Talk Too Much...All Over the World

Februrary 4, 2011

Katie Mae and Sheldon have bought their tickets to Ghana!!!!!!  YIPPEEEEE.  I’m so excited! They’ll be here at the end of March; so I’m staying in my village and saving my cedis so I can travel around with them when they get here.  And Katie Mae is bringing my new SLR camera!!!!! And a double cheeseburger from McDonalds!!!!!  :)  I can’t wait to hang with someone who actually knows me and understands me and…I’m just so happy!!!

So today I went to HoHoe to pick food and supplies for the women’s group  (the headband expansion is in full swing).  I was at my friend’s shop hanging out and a man and woman came in. She left her bags and went somewhere while the man stayed to buy the liquor.  So he’s done picking what he needs and is paying. He starts mumbling (in English) about how she is off somewhere talking.  “This woman.  She goes off and starts talking somewhere.  I am finished; where is she?  Talking somewhere!  Oh!”  And then he sticks his head outside to look for her. He gets his change and keeps mumbling.  I’m cracking up…it’s the same everywhere.  Men griping that the women talk too much …  I was so tickled. Wisdom, my friend, was watching me trying not to laugh, so he starts laughing and the man notices and turns to me and says, “I am sorry sister, but women! Oh, they make no sense!  They go off and talk for a long time.  Talk about nothing!”  LOL.  “Oh brother, it is the same everywhere. The men in my country say the same.  Oh, but you still love us!”  “Oh, yes. We love you.  Women are fine.”  It was really funny.  Things like this, make my day.

j

Can't Do Nuthin' Right

January 31, 2011

I’ve heard it’s been super cold at home, but here it’s been hella hot.  A little over a week ago the dust that has been making the sky foggy-looking started to clear, which means the beating sun is now shining through much more directly.  Eeek.  I completely ditched the village the other day and just laid under my ceiling fan in my underwear reading a book.  But tonight…just now… IT RAINED!!!!! It hasn’t rained in months…not since October or November.  Oh, the wind picked up and you could smell the rain coming and then…it was here!!!  It rained hard for about 40 minutes…it smells so good now!  I love rain.

Yesterday, I met with the batik group and we weeded and swept the Palm Oil Shed…which will now be our shed…well at least one of the rooms.  Termites have completely eaten through the 2 main doors and are well on their way to eating through the other 2…freaking bugs!  So, now we’ll have to do something about that.  As we were cleaning out the rooms, I hear Confidence screaming about something.  “What’s going on?”  “Oh, there is a very big lizard in there!”  I was thinking like a Monitor lizard or something…it was one of our common lizards (about 15 inches or so with it’s tail).  So I went and chased it out with my broom…as soon as it ran out the door one of the women started chasing it with her cutlass.  I’m screaming, “no, don’t kill it, nooooo” and all the women are laughing at me.  And Rita kept whackin’ him with her cutlass and finally chopped his head off.  “Oh!  Lizards eat bugs…they do not harm us.  Why did you kill it?”  Confidence, “I do not like them.”  Well then.  I can’t really argue…I kill spiders and I know they eat bugs…I can tell you that I have been killing a lot less since I’ve moved to Africa…

Last week I had a meeting with my chief and I’ve been approved to reshuffle the TMT; so now we have to announce it at the next community gathering.  We also talked about going and meeting with the Municipal Assembly to figure out why we are still waiting to use our tourism reception center.  So, hopefully these things get rolling.

So here’s your funny for today:  Today I was sitting at the roadside talking with Esther as she was filling the little bags with sugar to sell at her store.  So I said, “Oh, Esther, let me help.  I’ll tie the bags.”  “Can you?”  “Well, sure.”  I’m not stupid…geeze.  Well, apparently I am.  “Is this ok?”  “No, there is too much air.  Do it like this.” So after 2 more attempts my bag of sugar was approved.  Dang it, I thought I had this one!  “Esther, I am going to have to call my mother and tell her that I cannot even tie a bag a sugar correctly in Ghana!  She will be sad.”  She started laughing at me…but still didn’t hand my any more bags.

Happy Monday!
j

Library Day

January 25, 2011

So today was my first library day at the school.  For upper primary (grades 4-6), I brought out the boxes of books and put them in different stacks based on reading level and also if it was an African author or a foreign author.  I explained the rules of library: no ripping pages, no fighting over books, you must return the books to the stacks you got them from, you must bring the books back to me each Tuesday on library day, and you must sign the book out with me.  And then there was a mad rush of 32 kids attacking the books.  The headmaster went and got the switch and started whacking kids to get order.  We then decided that starting next week I will take each class individually for a half hour :)  Some of the kids picked their books and started reading and others just ran around…to be expected.  I showed them where to find the title and author and then just left them to read or whatever while I tried to look through their school books to decide what reading levels they are being taught.

After the lunch break I went back to the do the lower primary (grades 1-3).  Class 1’s teacher was missing, so I just went in and read a small book to them and showed them the pictures.  We tried to identify colors and establish that grasshoppers hop.  They had no idea what I was talking about, but were well behaved.  Class 2, I read a small book to them, too. They had no idea what I was talking about, either.  This was established as I tried to ask questions about the book…and then their teacher had to ask them in Ewe…they said the book was about a snake and a cat.  It was actually about a rabbit, duck, frog, and rat.  They did however establish that one animal was cooking…that was true…the rat.  So I talked to the teacher and said that they don’t understand me…I’m trying to talk really slow..,but…she said to keep coming back anyway. I didn’t make it to class 3 because I ran out of time.

So that was my day at school.  Tomorrow I have my Culture Club and we are going to practice writing.

j